The history of Raasay House is, in many ways, synonymous with the history of Raasay itself. Much of the history of the house and life of its inhabitants have influences the development of the island and the large estate features in many events, accounts and depictions of the island itself.
One of Raasay’s most distinctive and recognisable landmarks, this large mansion and grounds sit within Clachan, which has been the island’s unofficial “capital” for centuries. The house dominates the view as you arrive by ferry, which lands at what was originally the estate’s private pier and guarded by a battery that was at one time ringed with cannons. First constructed over 300 years ago, the house and those who owned it have continued to influence the lifestyle, economy and perception of the island ever since. Despite extensive renovations and the loss of much of the interior in devastating fire in 2009, the house retains many of its historical features and remains one of the most impressive buildings found anywhere in the West Coast of Scotland.
Second Seat of the MacLeods
Despite the grandeur and a seemingly perfectly suited location, Clachan was not the traditional seat of the MacLeods of Raasay, who were bestowed the island in the 14th century by Calum MacLeod, the 9th Chief of Lewis. The far more austere stronghold of Brochel, located in the north east of Raasay, was the first primary seat of the MacLeods from as early as the 16th century.
The modern Raasay House we know today probably started life as a subsidiary residence to the castle of Brochel, much in the same manner as Caisteal Camus did for the MacDonalds in nearby Sleat. At this point Clachan (An Clachan – “The churchyard” or “the village with a church”) in the south was more commonly known as “Kilmolnock” (possibly from Cille Mo Luaig – the church of Moluag) due to the presence of the large religious site and chapel which had existed there since at least the 6th century.
As the years went on, Brochel became increasingly unfit and outdated as a residence. It was during the era of Raasay’s revered chief Iain Garbh, who died around 1671 (legend maintains his boat was capsized due to an attack of shapeshifting cats), that the Macleods seem to finally abandon the no doubt cold and cramped castle in favour of a residence in Clahcan. Maps of the time support this movement away from Brochel. In the earliest maps of Raasay and Rona the first townships appear as “Kilmolnock” (probably Cille Mo Luaig – the church of Moluag) in the south and “Breokil” (Brochaill – possibly from the Norse “fort hill” or “fort field”) in the north. Eventually Clachan (An Clachan – “The churchyard” or “the village with a church”) becomes the dominant name around the time that the MacLeods became more established there.
Turbulent Beginnings?
By the time Martin Martin visits Raasay around 1695, the Macleods have relocated to their more modern and comfortable residence in Clachan. He writes about the village, and mentions the MacLeod’s seat:
The Proprietor of the isle is Mr. Mack-Leod, a Cadet of the Family of that name; his seat is in the village Clachan, the Inhabitants have as great veneration for him, as any Subjects can have for their King…
…There are eight such Crofies about the village, which is adorn’d with a little tower and lesser houses, and an Orchard with several sorts of berries, pot-herbs.
Martin describes a “a little tower” in the village, which was likely the dwelling of the MacLeods. Martin also mentions a small orchard, which bears striking resemblance to today’s walled garden located behind Raasay House. This original orchard was probably smaller, and the tower itself was located within the grounds of the modern walled garden.
This move into the lands of Clachan may not have been entirely peaceful or welcome to those who already lived there. Clachan (Kilmolnock) were originally church lands, and thought to have been marked as such with a boundary of standing stones. The Macleods encroachment into the boundary of Kilmolnock – and literally settling next to the church – is perhaps an indication of how the MacLeods were beginning to exercise more control over the island from the 16th century onwards. Some traditions maintain that Clan MacLeods took the island by force and that it was the MacSweens that originally ruled Raasay and built Brochel Castle. Donald Munro, who had become the vicar of Raasay and Snizort in 1526, notes in his account Description of the Western Isles of Scotland that Raasay “Pertained to M’Gyllychallan of Raasay (Calum Garbh) by the sword, and to the Bishop of the Isles by heritage”. Could the MacLeod seat also have been built and owned originally by the MacSweens?
The Modern House Takes Shape
Raasay House in its current form was built in the early 1700s. It started out as a small, rustic, laird’s house with an entrance, as was then common, on the non-seaward side. The older tower house that Martin mentions was taken down soon after 1746 and was used in the brickwork of this new house, with the walled garden covering the remains of the old tower. However, the new house itself had to be reconstructed only a year or so later, when redcoats plundered the island in search of Malcolm, the elusive 10th chief who supported the Jacobite cause and sheltered Bonnie Prince Charlie. Malcolm had already conveyed the estate to his eldest son before leaving for war, but on his return went into hiding on Rona to escape government troops. Failing to find him, the government soldiers raided both islands in harsh retribution. It was estimated that over three hundred houses were burned, the growing crops destroyed, upwards of two hundred and eighty cows and seven hundred sheep killed and several horses “shot for pleasure”. In addition, thirty-two boats were destroyed. The house was rebuilt from the remaining burnt shell, and in about 1761 Malcolm’s son John remodelled the house with a new south-facing five-bay front that is more recognisable as the house of today. The core of this earlier building still remains and is evident in the rear courtyard and older plans of the house. It was in this ‘neat modern fabrick’ – not ‘magnificently furnished’, but with 11 ‘fine’ rooms and ‘silver utensils’ – that Dr. Samuel Johnson and James Boswell enjoyed such vivacious hospitality in 1773, as guests of John Macleod. According to the writing of both men, the island, house and hospitality of the Raasay MacLeods was a particular highlight on their Hebridean tour.
Boswell describes much of the House and its grounds in his visit, and it seems both men were very impressed by the sights and pleasantries of the house and island. Boswell was quite taken by the MacLeods, made up of the well educated Raasay himself, along with his wife, three sons, ten daughters and extended family. The house was well stocked for the two men, both suited to a modern lifestyle of the time; preserves, chocolates and fine drink were generously supplied. Boswell describes “Two parrots in cages were set out before the door to bask in the sun”, as well as observing a decent walled garden growing “gooseberries, strawberries, raspberries, currants and apple trees”. This garden would later become renowned during Victorian times for its vineries of ripened fruit, peaches and hot houses. Johnson, so content with his stay, was noted to have said ‘This truly is the patriarchal life. This is what we came to find”.
Dr Johnson was slightly confounded however as to why the MacLeods had possessed the island for over 400 years but not thought to build a suitable pier: ‘How quietly people will endure an evil, which at any time they might easily remedy… a few men with picks might have cut an ascent of stairs out of any part of the rock in a weeks time.” Despite his reasonable point, the Macleods would not build a suitable landing pier until the mid 19th century and in so doing unearth a unique Pictish standing stone.
William Daniell’s Visit
As the decades progressed, modernisation of the house matched with the encroaching gentrification of the west coast itself. Between 1796 and 1805 an imposing seven-bay ashlar facade was built in the ‘modern’ style built for James Macleod. It was this house that would be visited by William Daniel in 1815, where we would get our most detailed depiction of the house.
As part of a tour of Scotland, William Daniell was on the island for two days, July 20th and 21st 1815. We don’t know if he stayed with the MacLeods in Raasay House but it’s more than likely that he did. On his print From the Isle of Rasay Looking Westward he writes:
The general character of the island is not picturesque; but such parts as are capable of tillage bear an aspect of judicious and thriving cultivation, which evinces that the worthy proprietor has not confined his spirit of improvement to the mansion itself, and its pleasure grounds. At some distance on the left there are spacious outhouses, constructed for the purpose of drying the crops, an operation often rendered necessary by the prevalence of wet weather in this westerly region. Even at this period, in the sultry month of July, 1818*, the sky was frequently overcast, and afforded but faint hopes of a single day without rain.
*this in incorrect as the date must have been 1815
Daniell’s depiction of Raasay House looking south shows the “landing place”, still several years before the pier that Johnson recommended would be built. Pathways clearly circle the area, and many boats are visible both in Crichton Bay and along the shore. The walled garden is clearly visible, with its impressive crops growing in neat rows and both men and ladies walking the grounds. A building is attached to the wall of the garden but this would later be removed. Daniell also sketched a drawing of the house as seen from the Ardhuish looking east. This unique view of the estate shows the earliest depiction of the steading (before it’s distinctive clock tower was added), the impressive plantation of trees around the grounds and the gardeners cottage at the end of the walled garden. The newly added portico on the front of the house is also visible, showing us the beginnings of what would become the Houses extensive ‘modern’ facade.
